Montana

Need a Luxury Break? You’ll Find it at Triple Creek Ranch in Montana

I was exhausted.  Emotionally Spent.

Tired of the daily gut punch delivered by the news each day, the spats on Facebook and other social media channels, of wanting to stay informed yet feeling overwhelmed. The best thing about living in New York is you’re at the center of everything. It’s also the worst thing.

Cowboy boots on a coffee table with a bottle of wine in front of a fire.

I needed an escape. The outdoors. Fresh air.

So when I was invited to Triple Creek Ranch, an adult only, all-inclusive resort, hidden in a sea of pine, I knew it was fate. I’d attend a real Spring cattle branding, ride horseback, commune with nature, and try sapphire panning (Never heard of it? Me neither). Nothing about my trip would resemble my usual day-to-day and that’s exactly what I wanted.

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Taken near the Viewing Bench at dawn. Rider’s Roost in the background.

A member of Relais and Château, Triple Creek sits in the heart of Montana’s Bitterroot Mountain Range, an hour and a half drive from Missoula.

I arrived in late afternoon, climbing a long winding road that links the private cabins and guest houses to the main lodge and the rest of the property. A herd of wild elk grazing in a field greeted me. I took it as a good omen. Only a few hours into my adventure and I was discovering wildlife I’d never seen before.

Trapper

My hideaway was the one-bedroom log cabin called “Trapper,” named after Trapper Peak, the tallest mountain in the region. It was dark during the day (I prefer a lot of natural light) but cozy and comfortable. In the half kitchen was a Keurig coffee maker and a small refrigerator filled with beverages. My bedroom contained a shower for two that doubled as a steam room, plus all the amenities you’d expect from a luxury resort.

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The living room

A welcome gift, a mix of sweet and savory treats, was both a blessing and a curse. Homemade trail mix, bags of Tillamook Beef Jerky (I binged), Huckleberry popcorn and avocado oil potato chips were far more intriguing than I wanted them to be.

Two green apples (a small nod to health) were wholly uninteresting next to the large, cowboy boot-shaped cookies straight from the chef’s kitchen, hand wrapped in cellophane and tied with string. Anything I ate would have been replenished the next day, but I asked them not to. It’s the only drawback to an all-inclusive resort: no absurd minibar charges to curb snacking.

Cookies and Triple Creek Ranch trail Mix

The treats that were both a blessing and a curse

The fireplace was the highlight of my little nest. A comfy leather chair, a drink and a roaring fire became a nightly ritual. Though the hot tub came in a close second. There’s nothing like soaking in bubbling hot water on a cool night surrounded by the scent of Ponderosa pine.

My cabin also came with a golf cart, and as a car-less New Yorker who likes to drive, I was loving it behind the wheel.

Things to do

Triple Creek is all about nature and the outdoors, and offers a wide range of activities from Orvis-rated fly fishing, white-water rafting, and archery, to hiking, nature safaris, dog sledding, skiing, and skijoring (being pulled on skis through the snow by a galloping horse). Any specialized attire such as chaps, chinks, cowboy hats, and waders, are available to guests if needed. The ranch also hosts themed weekends such as the Spring Branding I attended, culinary classes and wine tastings, girl’s get-togethers, and Stave puzzle events.

As a former horse owner, I focused on riding.

Susan Portnoy, the insatiable Traveler, horseback riding in Montana

Spring Branding

Every April, ranchers across Montana and the American West, take turns branding, vaccinating and castrating each other’s calves. It’s an age-old tradition that is more than a work event, it’s a community affair. Children and spouses pitch in, and once the work is done the host ranch throws a barbecue.

Cowboys' roping a calf for Triple Creek Ranch Spring Branding Day -

Two cowboys rope calves during the CB’s Spring Branding

I had the opportunity to attend an authentic Spring Branding at the CB, a 26,000-acre working cattle ranch owned by the Barrett family (Craig Barrett is the former chairman and CEO of Intel) who owns Triple Creek.

It was a fascinating, exciting, and emotionally complicated experience. A glimpse of a cultural institution I was familiar with from watching a gazillion westerns but had never seen first-hand. I took a lot of pictures and will focus on it in my next post. So stay tuned.

Riding

My first outing was a leisurely, single file walk through the woods at Triple Creek. Earlier in the day we had a short orientation at the barn, met the riding staff, and saddled and groomed a few horses. Our ride began after lunch.

The scenery was beautiful. Fog wove its way through the trees, casting a dark fairytale quality over the forest. Unfortunately, it rained. Hard. Soaking my jeans and letting the cold have its way with me, making the ride less than ideal.

Soggyness aside, it was great to be back in the saddle.

View of the Bitterroot Mountains in MontanaMy second ride was much better. Under a dazzling blue sky, we went on a lovely, four-hour cross-country adventure at the CB. Blessed with wide open spaces, we were able to fan out and ride side by side which was much more fun than the single file the woods demanded.

We traversed a variety of terrain amidst magnificent landscapes, climbed hills, switchbacked down steep slopes, and crossed streams. With every step I felt my stress melt away. Mid ride we picnicked under a tree overlooking the valley.

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Horse back riding in Montana

My fellow riders during my cross-country ride. Photo: Triple Creek.

My horse was a handsome black-and-white paint named Tuff. He was so good the first time I requested him on the second.

The only downside was having to walk the entire time. It’s not unusual in groups because experience varies, but it would have been nice if more capable riders could have trotted or cantered a bit.

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One of the many spectacular views during the cross-country ride

Sapphire Panning

When I first learned about sapphire panning, it sounded painfully boring. Sheehan, an activity coordinator, swore it was a guest favorite. I was skeptical.

“It’s addictive,” He said.

“Really???”

“Really.”

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Sheehan showing the Teeter Totter method for separating the large stones from the smaller

What the hell, I decided to give it a go. Sheehan demonstrated, then it was my turn.

In a nutshell: Gravel purchased from a company called Gem Mountain, is poured into a square wooden sieve, then rinsed in a water trough to remove excel soil and debris. Smaller pebbles are then separated from the larger stones by shaking the sieve up and down (called the “baby bounce”) and rocking it from side to side (the “teeter totter”). Afterward, the sieve is flipped over onto a large table.  Tweezers are used to pick through the pebbles until sapphires are found.

I immersed myself in the hunt.

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My gems

To my surprise I liked it. The appeal is simple: It was like playing a slot machine. Every time I picked through the pebbles I was offered a chance to win, and every time I won a little I wanted more. In 30 minutes I had 15 or so tiny beauties in pink, yellow and blue, and I didn’t want to stop.

It was addictive. Who knew?

The Food

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The dining room

I’m not a foodie but I love a good meal. The chef, Jacob Leatherman, served daily menus that were sophisticated yet unfussy, and used fresh ingredients from the gardens and orchards at the CB. For breakfast, I loved the bacon, cheddar pancakes. For lunch, the California BLT was especially delish. Dinners were four courses, in addition to an amuse bouche and a petit four. I rarely left anything on my plate.

The bar at Triple Creek Ranch in Darby Montana

A small portion of the large bar on the third floor of the main lodge

Triple Creek’s Special Sauce

There are resorts beloved for their overt luxury and others for their subtlety. Triple Creek is the latter. Imagine visiting a friend’s home (albeit a ridiculously rich friend), enhanced by thoughtful touches and all the I’s dotted and T’s crossed, and you’ll get a sense of what I’m talking about.

The staff knew my name and drink preferences, even if I never met them before. At turn down, western themed poems accompanied gourmet chocolates. If it was chillier than expected, there were toasty, Lands End coats to wear. The kitchen had an open door policy, inviting guests to visit any time. (I never did but loved that I could have.) In the lounge, where cocktails and hors d’oeuvres were served, photos of activities taken during the day were shown on a monitor the same night. (I loved this. The pictures were a great conversation starter and inspired a sense of camaraderie between guests who shared their day.)

Susan Portnoy, The Insatiable Traveler, at Triple Creek Ranch in Darby, Montana

Yours truly decked out in my new Wranglers and cowboy belt on the Observation Deck

On the morning of my departure, I returned from breakfast to find a gift: a photo of me and Tuff in a paper frame on my coffee table.

It was the perfect send off to a memorable stay.


Some tips to getting the most out of your visit. 

  • My cabin was set relatively close to others. If you want greater seclusion, consider staying in one of the guest houses.
  • It’s worth renting a car even with a golf cart at your disposal. If you want to explore Darby or partake in activities off the ranch, you’ll want the flexibility. Since it costs $300 for Triple Creek’s round trip airport shuttle, you might as well.
  • Consider ordering dinner in one night. Hunker down in front of the fire and watch a good DVD. You’ll find a selection in the activity center’s library.
  • Check out the panorama of mountains from the Viewing Bench at sunrise.
  • If  you can’t decide what to eat on the menu, ask your servers for a little of each. They’ll be happy to oblige.
  • Enjoy a cocktail before dinner in the rooftop lounge. Or, if you like, have dinner on the balcony.
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Bacon Cheddar Pancakes. A must!

  • Triple Creek sponsors Jessie Royer, an Iditarod competitor who came in third in March and has finished 13 times. For two weeks every January, in preparation for the race and to get her dogs in tip-top shape, dog sledding is free. (Normally $325/per person).
  • From April thru October, Cross Country rides on the CB are $150 per person, a cost waived November thru February and on signature weekends such as the Spring Branding.
  • If you score while sapphire panning, Triple Creek can set you up with an appraiser. When you get home, clean your sapphires by putting them in a solution of water and white vinegar for a week or two.
  • If you’re driving from Missoula to Triple Creek and fancy indulging your inner cowboy, stop off at Murdoch’s Ranch and Home Supply in Hamilton. You gotta love a place where you can buy a log splitter, baby chicks and cowboy clothes under one roof. (I treated myself to a pair of wranglers and a belt with a big western buckle.) Ask for Jody; she was great.
  • Solo travelers:  I enjoyed myself because I am comfortable being alone when everyone else is with someone. If that’s out of your comfort zone, Triple Creek is probably not the best fit for you.

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If you need an escape. A romp outdoors. Beautiful scenery and impeccable service. It's at Triple Creek Ranch. (2)

 


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33 replies »

  1. Traveling to Montana has been on my wish list for a while, even though I neither ride nor hike; seeing your photos and this ranch is a great reminder to move a trip to Montana higher up on my wish list. Great post (both this and your branding adventure post), it was like being transported to the place for a little while.

    • Hi Kiki – I highly recommend Montana. Those mountains and the fresh air are intoxicating. I wouldn’t mind a little sabbatical for a few months there. 🙂

      Thank you so much for the kind words about the posts. It means a lot that you took the time out of your busy schedule to take a look. I hope you return. 🙂

  2. Okaaaaay, this place sounds amazing! You had me at ‘adult-only’! The fireplace sounds amazing, and the high ceilings in the dining room are stunning. What an amazing what to unwind!

  3. Great post Susan. I spent 3 weeks in Missoula last year for various photo workshops, but had no idea this place was close by. I look forward to checking it out next time I’m back! I discovered huckleberry when I was in Montana and love it-ice cream and taffy flavored with it are two of my favorites !

    • Those must have been great. Who led them? I wish I could have stayed longer in Montana. It was so beautiful. Huckleberry is mighty addictive. I ate the whole bag of popcorn in one sitting. I have no discipline. Made myself nauseous from eating so much, but it was fabulous!

  4. Love your blog post! Photos are great! I felt like I was right back at Triple Creek as I poured over ever word and photo! (On IG, I follow you as thelifeofpie58…..Loved your videos of Triple Creek on Ig!)

    • Hi!!! Yes, I remember you mentioning it. Awesome. Glad you liked the IG Stories and this post. I think you’ll really like the follow up. :))))

      Please share the post if you think friends or family will enjoy. It would be most appreciated. Have a great day!

  5. My kind of place, and that part of Montana is one of my favorite places to be. Living in the west, we see these large ranches quite often. We know an incredibly wealthy man that owns a bison ranch in Wyoming, it’s always a fun place to visit. Nothing, is better than mountain air for relaxing away the stress of life.

    • It really is a special tonic, Mary. Yes, there’s Central Park here and upstate New York, but the mountains. Sigh… Just incredible. Have you ever seen a branding? Do they do that to bison? Triple Creek has bison too but I never got a close look.

Would love to hear from you!