I love solo travel but that doesn’t always mean that I am necessarily alone. The more interested I become in photography, the more I enjoy taking small photo tours/workshops to explore my wish list destinations.
The benefits are threefold:
1. I discover a new place.
2. I improve my photographic skills by learning from professionals whose work I admire.
3. I meet people who enjoy photography as much as I.
My recent visit to western Mongolia was with a workshop led by Timothy Allen.
I love Tim’s work, in particular his environmental portraits and use of single source light. His images have won many awards, been in countless prestigious publications, and he was named Travel Photographer of the Year in 2013.
When I learned about his workshops in Mongolia, I immediately wanted to go. His itinerary promised not only photo journalistic opportunities but staged shots he would arrange to teach us how he creates his signature portraits.
Our subjects would be the famed Kazakh golden eagle hunters—men who still practice the centuries old tradition of using eagles to hunt animals for their pelts, and who Tim has befriended over the last 10 years.
(There are under 100 legitimate eagle hunters left in Mongolia and it’s conceivable that in a few generations the tradition will fade into obscurity as more young people abandon the culture’s nomadic life to live in the cities.)
Since it was July and the middle of the summer and eagle hunters only hunt during the winter when an animal’s fur is at its thickest, our subjects donned their traditional garb out of season at Tim’s request. It was a new experience for me. I’d never photographed a set up shot before and I was curious to see how it would work.
Our first shoot was with Saylau, an elderly eagle hunter with a stately air, piercing eyes and an impressive goatee. Hi wife Sayna, was slight and reserved but very sweet. She sat with him for a while and then left him to sit alone with his striking 3-year old golden eagle.
A few days later, we photographed Shohan, a handsome, somewhat famous eagle hunter whose family we camped near and hung out with the last four days of our two week adventure.
A ger makes a wonderful photographic studio. A canvas flap over a hole in the roof can be adjusted to let in more or less light. If you cover it all the way, the door becomes the only source of illumination and that’s exactly what we were after.
The inside of a Saylau’s ger was rich with eye candy. Handmade tapestries in red, orange and yellow draped every inch of the circular one-room home. There were saddles stacked in a corner, animal pelts, wrought iron beds and a wood burning stove. A visual slice of life so completely different from our own and a perfect backdrop for our portraits.
With Saylau and his wife, I used my wide-angle lens (16-35mm, f2.8), allowing the elements in the room to frame the couple and provide context. We propped the door of the ger half open, letting the light fall on the duo from the side in a luminous glow. We were lucky, it was a cloudy day and it was relatively soft and diffused. The key was to expose for the highlights, the brightest areas within the frame so that they weren’t blown out, then, if necessary, we could bring the darker shadows up during the editing process.
Tim encouraged us to explore various angles to see how the light fell on their faces as we moved around them, and the difference in look and feel each perspective produced. We shot straight on, from the side and directly opposite the light, catching the two in profile.
The most difficult part of the shoot was working in a relatively small space with eight photographers and Tim while navigating around the stove which stood smack dab in the center of the room and was blazing hot. At times I would see something I wanted but before I could snap the shutter another photographer would snag their attention and the moment was lost. Everyone did their best not to step on each others’ toes but it was frustrating.
Shooting the same subject as a group is never ideal but it was a great opportunity for experimentation and making use of Tim’s guidance and feedback. I reminded myself that if I ended up with a great shot, wonderful. If not, there was still a lot of value in the exercise.
Next we photographed Saylau and his eagle. The challenge was capturing both Saylau and his bird looking great at the same time and keeping both in focus. I wanted to shoot with a shallow depth of field (f2.8) so that he stood out against the blur of the background, making focusing even more problematic. I enjoyed the challenge, intermittent frustrations and all. Plus, the wildlife lover in me got a huge kick out of being so close to a golden eagle.
Round two was a couple of days later with Shohan inside another ger which gave us a chance to practice all that we’d learned shooting Saylau.
The ger we used for Shohan had been set up the day before and was empty, giving us more room to maneuver (no stove!) but also meant we needed to dress the ger so that we would have a proper setting in which to plug-in our eagle hunter. We borrowed tapestries, animal pelts, saddles, whips and bridals from the family to recreate a small part of the Kazakh gers we’d seen during our travels. With Tim acting as our creative director, we all pitched in to create the scene.
When we had everything where we wanted, one of Shohan’s daughters appeared wearing a winter fur coat and hat. She had beautiful almond eyes, perfect skin and cherry red lips. Surprise! We had another subject to dote on and she became our first shot of the day. She was wonderful. For such a young girl ( I believe she was 11) she sat with quiet grace—though she had eight cameras pointing at her—and looked from lens to lens like a pro.
When Shohan arrived, he wore a magnificent wolf fur coat that had to weigh at least 15 lbs and a mixed fur hat that echoed his daughters’. Though relatively short, I’m guessing 5’7″, Shohan had a powerful aura about him that made him seem taller. His resting face was serious which gave him a warrior vibe, but when he smiled (and he did so a lot) it evaporated, leaving a brilliant smile in its wake that lit up the room. Pulling the look together was his very cheeky golden eagle that kept trying to fly out of the room.
Because Shohan’s feathered friend was so feisty, Tim suggested that we might want to minimize the risk of a bad picture by shooting at f8—meaning our images would have a greater depth of field. If the eagle moved a few inches in front of or behind Shohan, both of our subjects would still be in focus.
Our last set up, which was completely different, was on location in a beautiful valley a few miles away from camp with a lovely river snaking through the mountains that rose up on either side. We started on the valley floor photographing Shohan on his horse racing around a herd of grazing cows. Then we climbed 400-500 ft up one of the mountains so that we could place the majesty of the countryside behind in the frame. Shohan looked fabulous (and was incredibly patient) as he posed for over an hour and a half at our behest.
I’m a voracious learner when it comes to something I’m passionate about, some might say obsessive. Like most people today, I want instant gratification and if not instant, at least as fast as I can get it. I found that I just learn better when I can ask questions in the moment. When someone can see what I’m trying to achieve and help me get there. It’s that simple. And what better way place to do it than in an incredibly exotic foreign country?
It’s been a few weeks since my return from Mongolia and I am pretty happy with the images I took that day. More important, I learned a lot.
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For more stories and photos from my trip to Mongolia click HERE.
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